by Steve Smith, White Mountain Guide co-editor
This major new trail was constructed over a six-year period by AMC and other members of the Grafton Loop Trail Coalition, including the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands, the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the Maine Conservation Corps, Hurricane Island Outward Bound School, several timber management companies, Sunday River Ski Resort, and other private landowners. The group's goal was to develop multi-day hiking opportunities that offer alternatives to heavily used sections of the Appalachian Trail. This unique public-private partnership was the first major AMC new trail construction project in the White Mtns. since the Centennial Trail was opened in 1976. About 30 mi. of new trail have been constructed on either side of Grafton Notch, which, along with an 8-mi. section of the Appalachian Trail between Old Speck Mtn. and Baldpate Mtn., has created a 38-mi. loop that connects a series of scenic peaks and other natural features. The eastern section of the Grafton Loop Trail opened to public use in 2003 and is described in the 9th edition of the AMC Maine Mountain Guide.
The western section of the trail, 12.7 mi. long, opened in 2007 and provides access to the spectacular views from Sunday River Whitecap (though views from the rest of this section are limited). Grades are mostly easy to moderate with a few short steep pitches. At present the first 8 mi. of this section passes through private land, where landowners have generously granted public access. Camping is allowed only at the two designated campsites at Sargent Brook and Slide Mtn., and fires are not permitted.
Parking for the western section of the trail is allowed only at the trailhead for the eastern section. This parking area is on the east side of ME 26, 4.9 mi. north of its junction with US 2 at Newry and almost opposite Eddy Rd. To reach the western section trailhead, walk 0.6 mi. south on the shoulder of ME 26 to a sign for the Grafton Loop Trail. By agreement with the landowner, parking is prohibited at the western section trailhead. Mileages are given from the eastern section trailhead parking area.
From ME 26, the trail follows a farm road along the left edge of a field for 90 yd., then bears left off the road (sign) and in another 125 yd. turns right to cross the Bear River on a snowmobile bridge. Marked with snowmobile arrows, it crosses two fields and enters the woods, following an old road south. At 1.2 mi. the road swings left, and in another 50 yd. the trail turns right (west) off the road (sign) onto a footpath. In 20 yd. the blue-blazed trail crosses a small brook and swings right to follow it, climbing at mostly easy grades and crossing the brook three more times in the next 0.4 mi.; between the second and third of these crossings it passes a small flume. It continues following the brook at moderate grades up the northeast slope of Bald Mtn., occasionally making use of old woods roads. It crosses the brook twice more, and at 2.4 mi. it turns left, crosses the brook (or its dry bed) for the last time, and climbs steadily by switchbacks to the broad crest of Bald Mtn. It continues at easy grades across the plateau, crosses a small sag, and reaches its high point on Bald Mtn. at 3.2 mi. It then descends moderately to a flat saddle, where it runs nearly level to the right of a logged area. It soon begins the ascent of Stowe Mtn., first at easy grades, then becoming steep with many rock steps as it enters spruce woods. At 4.3 mi. it ascends a series of wooden ladders. The grade eases as the trail crosses the flat, wooded crest of Stowe Mtn. at 4.5 mi. It then descends to a minor col at 4.8 mi., where it crosses a small brook, and ascends briefly to the semi-open, ledgy west knob of Stowe Mtn., where there are limited views. Marked by cairns, it runs across the ledges for 0.1 mi., then reenters the woods. It follows a winding course through dense growth, then swings north and descends at mostly easy grades. The trail now traverses the southwestern slope of Sunday River Whitecap through open woods, with minor ups and downs, crossing several small, unreliable brooks.
At 6.0 mi. a spur path diverges left and descends 0.2 mi. to Sargent Brook Campsite, crossing a small brook (water) in 50 yd. Here there are four tentsites and a community cooking area (no fires allowed). The main trail traverses to the west, then turns right (north) at 6.2 mi. and ascends moderately along the west slope of Sunday River Whitecap, gaining the ridgecrest in a small col at 6.7 mi. It follows the ridge over a hump, descends to another col, then climbs again, emerging on open ledges at 7.0 mi., where AMC trail crews have used innovative construction techniques – including scree walls and raised wooden walkways - to protect the fragile alpine vegetation. Hikers are urged to stay on the defined trail and outlook areas. At 7.1 mi., just before the summit is reached, a side path descends 25 yd. right to a designated viewing area looking east. In another 20 yd. a similar path leads 20 yd. left to a western outlook with a fine view of the northern Mahoosucs and the distant Presidentials. The main trail crosses the summit and descends steeply north over open ledges, then swings more to the northeast, winding down over ledges and through patches of scrub with excellent views of the peaks around Grafton Notch. At 7.3 mi. it descends into a belt of woods, then in 125 yd. swings left (west) and emerges on an open shoulder. At 7.6 mi. it enters the woods for good and descends steadily west, then southwest through an area where some yellow blazes remain from a former unofficial trail. The grade eases in open woods at 7.9 mi., and at 8.3 mi. the trail swings left (south) on the broad floor of Miles Notch, runs nearly level for 0.1 mi., then bears right (west) and ascends through logged areas onto the lower slope of Slide Mtn. At 8.6 mi. it turns left (south) again and contours along the slope, with occasional rough footing, then descends through a bouldery area to a low point at 9.1 mi. It soon swings west and ascends briefly, then runs northwest at easy grades, with minor ups and downs, passing to the left of a large boulder at 9.5 mi. The trail runs at easy grades through fine hardwood forest for some distance along the base of Slide Mtn., then rises gradually into mixed woods. At 10.4 mi. a spur on the right ascends 110 yd. to Slide Mountain Campsite, where there are three tentsites and a community cooking area (no fires allowed). About 35 yd. past this junction the Grafton Loop Trail crosses a small brook (the water source for the campsite), runs west, then soon swings right and ascends through a hardwood glade. It then bears left and winds gradually up the east side of a valley. It enters conifers and climbs more steadily across the slope, gaining the crest of a southeastern spur of Old Speck Mtn. at 11.9 mi. Here it swings left and ascends up the ridgecrest, then bears left again and climbs by easy switchbacks with good footing. At 12.2 mi. it climbs through a blowdown patch with restricted views south. The grade increases at 12.7 mi. and the footway becomes rough with rocks, roots and holes as it slabs the south slope of Old Speck. At 13.0 mi. there is an outlook southeast towards Sunday River Whitecap and the Bear River valley. The trail soon swings right and the footing improves. After one more steady climb the trail levels, passes a trail sign, and 10 yd. farther emerges in the clearing at the summit of Old Speck Mtn. Here there are fine views northeast, and a full panorama may be obtained from the observation tower, which is ascended by a vertical metal ladder.
Grafton Loop Trail (western section)
Distances from Grafton Loop Trail (eastern section) trailhead parking area on ME 26 (730 ft.) to
- start of western section via ME 26 (730 ft.): 0.6 mi., 0 ft., 20 min.
- high point on Bald Mtn. (2,070 ft.): 3.2 mi., 1,350 ft., 2 hr. 15 min.
- Stowe Mtn. summit (2,730 ft.): 4.5 mi., 2,250 ft. (rev. 250 ft.), 3 hr. 25 min.
- Sargent Brook Campsite spur (2,710 ft.): 6.0 mi., 2,450 ft. (rev. 200 ft.), 4 hr. 15 min.
- Sunday River Whitecap summit (3,335 ft.): 7.1 mi., 3,100 ft., 5 hr. 5 min.
- Miles Notch (2,350 ft.): 8.3 mi., 3,100 ft. (rev. 1,000 ft.), 5 hr. 40 min.
- Slide Mtn. Campsite spur (2,550 ft.): 10.4 mi., 3,500 ft. (rev. 200 ft.), 6 hr. 55 min.
- Old Speck Mtn. summit (4,170 ft.): 13.3 mi., 5,100 ft., 9 hr. 10 min.
