AMC Outdoors, October 2000

By Michael Lanza

There are people who will argue till their monitor turns blue that we live in the Communications Age. I say those people spend too much time with their modem. In my history book (yet to be published), our time will be known as the Moisture-Transfer Age.

OK, hyperbole aside, few advances have reordered the outdoor world more completely than waterproof-breathable outerwear. Technical garments from mountain parkas to summer rain gear have arguably increased safety by keeping us warmer and drier, and opened up the backcountry to greater numbers of people at more times of the year by enhancing their comfort. (See also tips on caring for waterproof-breathable garments below.)

But we still blanch at the cost of this stuff and agonize over which jacket is right for us. That's because the choices in this category today are dizzying and change every year. (Some companies are now even producing waterproof-breathable outerwear for children.) As with anything else, buying smart begins with figuring out what you need - which isn't necessarily the most expensive winter parka or superlight shell on the rack.

Evaluate Your Needs
For starters, do you really need a waterproof-breathable outer layer? If your pursuits are of a highly aerobic nature and rarely take you out for more than a few hours, you're probably better off with a water-resistant, highly breathable shell that's very lightweight and compacts into a tiny bundle. Water-proofness compromises breathability, and the outdoor athlete – who's producing lots of body heat and getting wet from perspiration anyway – can afford to compromise protection from the elements for maximum breathability. But if your activities take you into the backcountry for full days, or many days – especially in the Northeast mountains, where you may encounter cold wind and wet – a waterproof-breathable shell can help stave off hypothermia.

Waterproof-breathable fabrics operate on a simple principle: They allow water vapor rising from your pores to escape the garment, while preventing rain and other precipitation, as well as wind, from entering. This is generally accomplished in one of two ways: using a laminated membrane like Gore-Tex®, or a chemical coating, such as LoweAlpine's Triplepoint Ceramic. These fabrics bead and shed water thanks to a durable water-repellent finish, or DWR, applied to the exterior.

As Kleenex® is to facial tissue, so Gore-Tex has become synonymous in the public mind with waterproof-breathable, and many in the outdoor industry still consider Gore-Tex superior for overall performance in extreme cold or wet conditions. But numerous outerwear manufacturers make their own waterproof-breathable fabrics that function well and are less expensive.

Many outerwear manufacturers use Gore-Tex or another laminate, and laminates come in various incarnations. Two-layer laminate construction means the outer layer is bonded to the laminate, plus there's a free-hanging layer inside that wicks moisture to the outside. Two-layer is generally less expensive and is adequate for less-demanding activities such as day-hiking. In three-layer laminate construction, the shell, laminate layer, and wicking layer are all bonded together, making for a more durable, lightweight, and packable but stiffer garment than a two-layer. Three-layer is better for serious backcountry travel.

A new fabric from Gore that's appearing in outerwear from virtually every major manufacturer this year is called XCR, for Extended Comfort Range. Manufacturers claim that garments made with XCR are anywhere from 25 percent to 50 percent more breathable than traditional Gore-Tex; the folks at Gore stand by the 25 percent estimate. XCR comes in two-layer and three-layer versions. Another Gore fabric, Paclite, is extremely lightweight and packable but not as durable as three-layer.

The features on a jacket may be the deciding factor for you, and they certainly affect the price, so look for just the ones you want. Manufacturers are tending these days toward trimming away the extras in favor of lightweight designs that don't inhibit movement. Many jackets, though not all, have armpit zippers for venting, which I find indispensable. Some jackets have single or double storm flaps over the front zipper and pit zips to keep water out, or waterproof zippers, which are lighter and less bulky. A two-way front zipper allows you to ventilate from the neck or waist. Look for cuffs that are either elasticized or adjustable with hook-and-loop strips, such as VELCRO®. Try the jacket on with your pack, to make sure you can access pockets while wearing the pack. For warmer temps, look for a light, pliable hood, bill, and collar that lie flat when you want them out of the way. Stiff-billed hoods are preferable in the cold, and look for the kind that roll up into the collar when not in use. The hood should have draw-cords to adjust the hood's depth as well as the snugness around your face.

How much should you spend? It really does depend on how much jacket you need. The ones with hefty price tags and all the bells and whistles are designed for extreme activities such as mountaineering and ice climbing, where cold, wet conditions are the rule. If that's your gig, you might spend anywhere from $250 to $450 or more for a jacket, but the protection it provides is virtually indispensable. On the other hand, lightweight waterproof-breathable jackets in the $100 to $250 range keep the rain off and breathe well, making them adequate for three-season hikers and backpackers.

Care of Garments
Proper care of a waterproof-breathable garment can greatly extend its functional life. Follow these tips:

• As much as possible, keep the material free of dirt, which can "mask" the durable, water-resistant finish and cause the garment to "wet out," or appear waterlogged and feel clammy.
• Follow manufacturer's instructions for washing. Most recommend occasional washing to remove dirt, skin oils, and smoke residue, all of which can compromise the DWR. Sometimes washing and drying alone will restore it. Some manufacturers advise using a non-detergent soap such as Nikwax Tech Wash; others recommend a small amount of powder laundry detergent. Check their recommendations on drying as well. With Gore-Tex, machine-wash warm, using detergent but no chlorine bleach or fabric softener. Tumble-dry warm and steam-iron warm. If stained, use a pre-wash treatment such as Shout or Spray 'n' Wash.
• When the DWR eventually wears off (usually after a few years, depending on use) and can't be restored through washing and drying, reapply a DWR following the manufacturer's recommendations. Waterproofing agents on the market include Nikwax TX Direct, which is applied in a wash cycle, and Gore's Revivex, which is sprayed onto the garment between the wash and dry cycles.
• When the garment's layers are delaminating or seams are coming apart, you can try retaping the seams or sending it to a manufacturer-recommended vendor for repair. Most likely, though, it's ready for retirement. With hope, many years before you are.

—Michael Lanza is author of The Ultimate Guide to Backcountry Travel, from AMC Books.