Wild Winter Walks: Gulf Hagas, Little Lyford Pond Camps, Greenville

AMC Outdoors, December 2004

Also used by: Hikers, small portion by snowmobilers
Distance: 8.2 miles
Terrain: Gulf Hagas offers dramatic drops and views
Trail difficulty: More difficult
Surface quality: Ungroomed
Time: 3 full days for entire journey; 4 to 5 hours for 8.2-mile roundtrip only

In winter, ice forms on the walls of the deep and narrow slate cliffs of Gulf Hagas, creating avenues of vertical blue. Snow covers the pine forest at the top of the canyon and the walls eventually narrow to create falls, polls and chutes. No wonder Gulf Hagas is called the Grand Canyon of Maine.

The craggy gulf is along the West Branch of the Pleasant River. During a four-mile run, the river drops 400 feet. Just off the Appalachian Trail, Gulf Hagas was once a spot for logging. Today, the Gulf is a Registered National Landmark.

The Gulf is located between White Cap Mountain and the Barren-Chairback Range. In winter, getting there can be quite a journey, so a weekend trip might be best. The trip involves about a 6.5-mile ski day, an overnight at Little Lyford Pond Camps, then about an eight-mile ski/snowshoe trip the next day, then a return ski the third day.

Located along the West Branch of the Pleasant River, Little Lyford is surrounded by the mountain peaks of Elephant, Indian, White Cap and Baker. Approximately 20 miles of cross-country ski trails have been cut with access into the 400,000 surrounding acres of land.

Don’t expect a grooming machine out this way, though AMC camp manager, Bob LeRoy, has been known to go out with snowshoes to pack the trails. Signs are minimal, but well placed. Follow the blue squares out and the blue diamonds in.

Little Lyford is the jumping off place for a winter Gulf Hagas trip. But first you’ve got to get there.

Access to the camp is a day’s journey along an unplowed, multiple-use logging road. The longest ski into the camp, along flat to rolling terrain with views out to Maine’s central mountains, runs approximately 6.5 miles. But, sometimes the logging company plows the road a bit and the ski in can be shortened. Nevertheless, it’s a good four hours in to the camp along the Greenville Road. Carrying gear isn’t necessary as staff can haul it in behind a snowmobile. While most people ski in, snowmobiles, dog sleds and planes are other options.

The ski along the Greenville Road is fairly easy, but the distance makes it more difficult. It’s basically 10 miles from the start to a junction with the Katahdin Iron Works Road and then another 2.5 miles. Mountain ranges are off in the distance with peaks such as Elephant Mountain, the site of a B-52 crash, and White Cap Mountain where the Appalachian Trail wanders. On the following day ski or snowshoe from the lodge to Gulf Hagas, but once there, either use snowshoes or winter hiking boots. Forget about skiing—The Rim Trail is unforgiving.

The eight-mile roundtrip ski and snowshoe trip begins outside the lodge and heads into the narrowness of the woods. The first mile winds through the pine trees. It’s about a half mile to the first look of the West Branch before dipping back into the dense forest and a quick steep pitch back up to the banks along the rolling river.

Up ahead, the thick trees open up to a bridge and logging road used by snowmobilers. Cross the bridge by making a left and then travel about 100 yards before turning right into the woods. A few feet into the trail look for the LLPC sign on the left. Dip down and meander through the tunnel-like trees.

After about two miles, a sign announces the Appalachian Trail. In about a half-mile, turn right at the signpost onto the Gulf Hagas Rim Trail. Ski down about 0.2 mile to the Head of the Gulf, the first glimpse of the canyon. Leave your skis here and switch to snowshoes.

Follow the Rim Trail up and down along the edge of the canyon with various spur trails well worth taking for the vistas. The views get better as the trail continues.

The best views? The vista down from Billings Falls is at the top of the list. Many people stop here, have lunch and head on back. Better, continue on to Buttermilk Falls where the canyon narrows dramatically. At The Jaws, the canyon squeezes in tighter. Return via the Rim Trail and the ski trail back to LLPC.

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