AMC Outdoors, January/February 2005
Ice Climb Pinnacle Gully
Huntington Ravine is a spectacular spot in any season, but the long, cold winter turns it into a veritable ice palace. With 900 feet of vertical relief, it is a giant above-treeline amphitheater, its flanks lined with ice gullies.
With a grade of three and a maximum snow slope of 45 degrees, the route on Pinnacle is not the hardest around, but it’s one of the most beautiful with a truly alpine feel. If you’re not a seasoned climber, hire a guide—this is the expert category, after all climbers who make it up can then explore the icy Alpine Garden at the top of the gully. Hiking out on the Lions Head or Escape Hatch Trail is easy at the end of a hard day—the trails are well packed and easy to find.
When You Go: Definitely plan on an entire day for this multipitch climb. AMC offers several ice-climbing workshops and the area has many guides.
Climb Mount Washington
When you’re ready, the classic climb of Mount Washington in winter is the way to show your true colors as a Northeast adventurer. But with well-below-freezing temps, gale-force winds, and snow as deep as 20 feet, this is a serious trip. Winter mountaineering is nothing like its summertime equivalent and a dream outing can turn into a nightmare in a heartbeat. Many have died making this trek, but thousands, who are well-prepared and cautious, come home safely each winter. To ensure you’re one of these, have crampons, ice axes, and a very level head. Check avalanche and weather reports before heading out and be ready to reschedule your hike if necessary.
From Hermit Lake Shelter, the Lion Head winter route provides the shortest route to the summit starting in mid-January. The path ascends steeply westward to treeline and the large pile of rocks known as the “lion head.” From here, it heads west to where it meets the Alpine Garden Trail and starts to climb the summit cone. In bad weather, conditions can become very disorienting: Follow the cairns to the wooden sign by the Auto Road then up to the staircase to the summit. Many descend via the Crawford Path to Lakes of the Clouds Hut (closed for the winter) and then back over to the Tuckerman Ravine Trail.
When You Go: Stay at PNVC for an early start in the morning. The 8-plus mile hike takes all day. If you’re not experienced with winter conditions, take an AMC guided hike. Check the weather and avalanche conditions online. Don’t hesitate to cancel your climb if conditions look harsh. The mountain will be there next time.
Winter Camp at Hermit Lake
By now you get that overnighting on this mountain in winter could be the last thing you ever do. Camping regulations on the mountain are stringent for safety and ecological reasons, and the Hermit Lake Shelters are one of just a few options. For $10 a night, Hermit Lake offers eight shelters that can sleep 86—from a shuttered quasi cabin to a tent platform. There are no fires allowed and campers must sign up and pay at PNVC prior to their stay. Hermit Lake makes a great high-mountain practice spot for those with some winter camping experience.
When You Go: Shelters are first-come, first-served and often fill up on weekends. Get a ticket at PNVC; if you arrive without one, you’ll have to go back down. Call 603-466-2727 or visit www.outdoors.org for info.
Learn about Avalanches
If a snowfield is large enough to ski on, it’s large enough to avalanche. Avalanches take place all winter long and there is no set end date. Most fatal ones are caused by humans causing snow to shift and the danger increases with any new precipitation. So, what’s a skier (or snowshoer or climber) to do? You got it, get prepared.
One of AMC’s most popular workshops is our annual Avalanche! class. With one day spent in the classroom and one day at Tuckermans Ravine, learn how to use transceivers, beacons, and probes; understand the physics of snow; and know what to do in case of emergency.
When You Go: Cost of $159 (member)/$179 (nonmember) includes lodging and meals. Receive a National Ski Patrol certificate upon completion.
Winter on Washington, main | Beginner Trips | Intermediate Trips | Expert Trips
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