Classic Rock: 8 Great Hikes That Have Northeast Written All Over Them

AMC Outdoors, May 2006

Would you call your favorite hike a “classic”? When we posed this question to AMC chapter chairs, trip leaders, bulletin-board users, and staff, the answer was a resounding “yes!” We received dozens of votes for the all-time best trails in the Northeast, and, as varied as they were, they all shared several traits: fabulous views, moderate-to-(very) rugged terrain, a rich history or at least a good story, and a wild aspect unique to their region. They also were the places you’d most want to take your out-of-town visitors. We chose eight of the most popular picks. Have you ticked all these off your list?

Breakneck Ridge, Hudson Valley, N.Y.
Distance/Time: Four- or 12-mile loop/2.5 hours
Intensity: Moderate/strenuous

What Makes It A Classic: It’s thrilling: “The sheer rock face and steep scrambles are directly above the Hudson River,” says Cynthia Tollo, Trails Chair for the New York-North Jersey Chapter. Legend has it a wild bull broke its neck as angry 18th-century farmers chased it off these perilous cliffs. Then there’s the view. From the first of several false summits, take in the remains of a castle on Bannerman Island, the campus of West Point built from local rock, and the peak of Storm King Mountain. For history, head out on the knobby ridge to South Beacon, the highest point in the area and site of “British Are Coming” warning beacons during the American Revolution. This hike is also perfect for car-less Manhattanites. When you’re done, just jump on the train at Breakneck Depot and rest your sore muscles on the hour-and-a-half ride to Grand Central Terminal.

The Hike: From the trailhead on Route 9D, head straight up the Breakneck Ridge Trail. You’ll climb 800 feet in the first half-mile, so come back down the Wilkinson Trail if you want to save your knees. Make the four-mile loop by taking the Bypass Trail and returning via the Wilkinson. For a big-time (12-mile) workout with Big Apple views, follow white blazes to the fire tower at South Beacon, gaining 3,300 feet as you go. Intermediate option: Park a shuttle car in Cold Spring for a vista-rich, seven-mile one-way hike on the Notch and Washburn trails, which offers a side trip to the summit of Mount Taurus (the peak formerly known as “Bull Hill”) and a pass through an old dairy farm. Come off the trail right into Cold Spring’s charming downtown.

Word to the Wise: Hiking in autumn means seeing the Hudson River Valley adorned in full foliage-and avoiding the blazing hot rockface and huge summertime crowds.

Conservation Watch: Most of the area has been protected since the late 1800s, when quarrying nearly reduced the ridge to rubble. But on the remaining private land around South Beacon, ATV users and hikers have had some clashes. AMC and other conservation organizations are working toward a resolution with the New York-New Jersey Trails Conference.

Watering Hole: Make tracks for Cold Spring Depot Restaurant, with its raw bar, ice cream parlor, and outdoor Dixieland band in summer. Main Street, 845-265-5000.

Mount Tom Traverse via the Metacomet-Monadnock Trail Easthampton/Holyoke, Mass.
Distance/Time: 6.6 miles one way/four hours
Intensity: Moderate

What Makes It A Classic: What doesn’t make it a classic might be a better question for Pat Fletcher. “It’s the prettiest section of the 114-mile Metacomet-Monadnock [M-M] Trail,” the Berkshire Chapter Trails Committe Chair says. Ruins of two century-old hotels still perch along this stretch-certified a National Recreation Trail in 2001 by the National Park Service-originally built here to take advantage of the eye-popping Connecticut River Valley vistas, says Fletcher. He also crows about the thousands of hawks that pass overhead during spring and fall migration, gliding on the same gusts hang gliders love.

The Hike: Start at the entrance to the Mount Tom Reservation on Route 141 after spotting a car at the Mount Tom Junction on I-5. Ascend talus slides to the cliffs of 1,202-foot Mount Tom, then enjoy a long ridge walk in and out of hemlock glens and river views as you continue north. At about three miles, you’ll begin seeing more of the reservation’s other trails, so keep following the white blazes. Read up on hawk behavior and climb a short fire tower at the Stone House Visitors Center. The trail then takes you up modest but rewarding Goat Peak (830 feet) and Mount Nonotuck (827 feet). Descend to the parking lot in style on an old carriage road, a reminder of the elegant hotel-goers of yore.

Conservation Watch: The Berkshire Chapter’s conservation committee is keeping their eyes on a traprock quarrying operation in the reservation, prohibited from expansion until it has restored areas already blasted away. Follow Quarry Trail from just south of the visitors center to take a closer look.

Word to the Wise: South to north is the way to traverse Mount Tom, says Fletcher. After an intense half-mile and 200-foot elevation gain, you’ll be happily ridgewalking the rest of the way.

Watering Hole: Make one final ascent to the rooftop beer garden at Northampton Brewery, 10 minutes from the trailhead, and find a dozen varieties on tap. 11 Brewster Court, 413-584-9903.

Resources: Massachusetts Trail Guide, 8th edition - this is the definitive guide to trails in the Bay State.

Old Rag Mountain, Shenandoah National Park, Va
Distance/Time: 8 miles roundtrip, 8-9 hours
Skill Level: Strenuous

What Makes It A Classic: When AMC members near Washington, D.C., think of classics, Old Rag is the first that comes to mind. Unfortunately, they’re not alone. As trip leader Paul Fofonoff says, “My old joke about Old Rag is that nobody goes there-it’s way too crowded.” Four miles off scenic Skyline Drive, this southern hike won’t take you as high as nearby mountains do, but will take you scrambling, squeezing, and crawling over 2,000 feet of wild, exposed rock. The Piedmont views from the jagged peak have served as muse for many an artist-remember John Denver’s “Country Roads?” When you walk down the treed slopes in May, revel in the azaleas blossoming all around you.

The Hike: The Blue Ridge Mountains can look pretty gentle. But Old Rag, a few miles from the ridgeline, is different. This 3,268-foot summit takes its name from its acres of sharp, raggedy rocksÑand, yes, you will be hiking on those. From the Old Rag parking lot on SR 600, head up the Old Rag Fire Road to the Ridge Trail. After a steady ascent, says Fofonoff, you’ll soon be clambering “under rocks and over rocks,” as the trail crosses boulder fields and the elevation rapidly increases. Descend via the Saddle Trail, then start your long hike back to the trailhead along the Weakley Hollow Fire Road. For a shorter adventure, ascend and descend the Saddle Trail.

Conservation Watch: Old Rag is just one of many Appalachian peaks being “loved to death.” The National Park Service is studying the impact of hikers and climbers here and had begun a series of public workshops as we went to press. Visit www.nps.gov/nero/science/NEW/newprojshen.htm

Word to the Wise: Two hundred parking spaces might seem like a lot, but they fill up fast on summer weekends. Get there early. Better yet, go during the week.

Watering Hole: Savor Shenandoah views, blackberry ice-cream pie, and Old Rag Ale at Big Meadows Lodge. Mile 51.2, one mile off Skyline Drive, 800-778-2851.

Cadillac Mountain via the South Ridge Trail Acadia National Park, Maine
Length/Time: 8-mile roundtrip/4 hours
Intensity: Moderate

What Makes It A Classic: At 1,532-feet, this pink granite mountain looms high over the Atlantic and boasts not only bountiful blueberries, but rare alpine flowers as well. Hikers on the rocky South Ridge Trail find breathtaking ocean views in three directions, says Doug Keith, Maine Chapter trip leader. He always makes time for a rest stop at the Featherbed, a small pond surrounded by a cool fringe of grass and cut right into a cleft in the ridgeline. Without a lot of steep spots and only a short overlap with the auto road, this route provides a friendly hike for kids and adults of varying abilities. And off-season hikers find solitude from masses of Maine vacationers, says Keith.

The Hike: From the trailhead, just past the Blackwoods Campground on Highway 3, the South Ridge Trail makes a gradual climb to Eagles Crag. Follow the short spur trail here for a panorama opening eastward. Western views appear as you intersect with the Cadillac West Face Trail at 3 miles. After parallelling the busy summit road for a short distance, you end up right at the gift shop. Walk on by and spend your time ogling the ocean instead of buying buoy earrings. Return the way you came or, if you’re feeling ambitious, make it an 8.3-mile loop by adding on the Dorr Mountain Trail from the Summit Loop Trail.

Word To the Wise: For a classic early-morning experience, join meditators, drummers, and sleepy hikers as they welcome the new day on the summit, the first place in the east to see the sun in summer. Conservation Watch: Avoid unnecessary auto trips on the island by taking advantage of the free, propane-powered Island Explorer bus system that makes frequent Acadia circuits in summer and fall; www.exploreacadia.com or 207-667-5796.

Watering Hole: Get a macro-view with your microbrew at Geddy’s Restaurant in Bar Harbor. 19 Main Street, 207-288-5077.

Resources: Discover Acadia National Park, 2nd edition - the only guide you'll need to explore Maine's famous park.

8 Classic Hikes, cont'd  >>