EIA Outdoors Online

AMC Outdoors, May 2006

Camel's Hump Camels Hump via the Monroe and Dean Trails Northern Vermont
Distance/Time: 8-mile loop/5.5 hours
Skill Level: Moderate/strenuous

What Makes It Classic: “This is the best climb in Vermont, in part because of the views and in part because it’s undeveloped,” says the New Hampshire Chapter’s Kevin Rooney of this pristine peak in the center of Vermont. Labeled “Camel’s Rump” on one antique map, the silhouette of this double-summit mountain much better resembles the desert dweller’s spine than its behind. Unlike on taller Mount Mansfield and Killington Mountain, no structures intrude on this National Natural Landmark-not even a fire tower-making it the highest undeveloped peak in the state. The mountain hasn’t changed much since venerable 19th-century University of Vermont professor and expert trailbuilder Will S. Monroe did his work here. And the Long Trail, the nation’s oldest long-distance hiking trail, bisects Camel’s Hump Recreation Area.

The Hike: Starting at the trailhead on Camel’s Hump Road, take the Monroe Trail (called “Forestry Trail” on pre-2000 maps) 1.3 miles through birch and beech forests to the Dean Trail. At 0.3 miles, you can spy the mountain’s famous humps reflected in a beaver pond on clear days. A fairly rugged col, Wind Gap, is your steep segue to the Long Trail, and leads to the sweeping Champlain-to-Canada summit vistas. Warning: The last third of a mile up is a doozy, with a 700-foot elevation gain. Descend via the Long Trail on the north face of the mountain to the final, gradually sloped, 3.1 miles of the Monroe Trail.

Word to the Wise: French explorers called the mountain “Le Lion Couchant” (sleeping lion). The farm at the trailhead, Couching Lion Farm, is where Monroe spent his busy retirement years.

Conservation Watch: The rocky summit rises 400 feet above treeline, providing habitat for alpine plants found in only two places in Vermont: here and on Mount Mansfield. Stay on the trail to protect this delicate vegetation.

Watering Hole: There’s a reason why the Ben & Jerry’s factory in North Waterbury, just eight miles up Route 100, is Vermont’s number-one tourist attraction. Hint: May have something to do with free samples.


Rattlesnake Swamp Trail/Appalachian Trail Delaware Water Gap, N.J.
Distance/Time: 5.8-mile loop/3.5 hours
Intensity: moderate

What Makes It A Classic: “The name sounds nasty, but it’s really lovely,” says AMC Regional Director Lennie Steinmetz. “And it’s got such varied terrain.” With open views of the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, a long Appalachian Trail section, a fire tower, historic AMC lodge, and the lurking possibility of meeting a dangerous viper, the Rattlesnake Swamp Trail is a hands-down winner. And the cherry on top is the swimming hole at hike’s end; jump in Catfish Pond (actually a long, glacial lake in which there definitely are snakes, I can personally attest) to cool off. As a participant on one of Steinmetz’ hikes once exclaimed, “This is New Jersey?”

The Trail: From AMC’s Mohican Outdoor Center, follow Camp Road to the white-blazed AT. Head up the ridge to the Catfish Pond Fire Tower Trail for your first great view and the start of a long, lovely ridge walk. At 1.2 miles, you’ll reach the fire tower, from which, on a clear day, you can see all the way to the Catskills, more than 60 miles away. Follow the AT as it descends to meet a gravel road. Take a left here and quickly find the Rattlesnake Swamp Trail on your right. It winds for five miles through a rhododendron and mountain laurel stands up to a Catfish Pond overlook. Connect with a grassy woods road at the north end for the walk back to Mohican’s main lodge.

Conservation Watch: The Delaware is the longest undammed river east of the Mississippi and the water quality, according to the NPS, is “exceptional,” thanks to ongoing efforts by local communities and environmental organizations.

Word to the Wise: If you do spot a timber rattlesnake (an endangered species in New Jersey), stay calm, keep your distance, and drop a dime. Report any sightings to the state’s Division of Fish and Wildlife by calling 877-WARN-DEP.

Watering Hole: The kitchen at rustic AMC Mohican Outdoor Center is self-service. Bring food or call ahead to arrange meals.. Mohican also offers five weeks of full-service Family Adventure Camp this summer. 50 Camp Road, Blairstown, 908-362-5670, www.outdoors.org/lodging/lodges/mohican.


Mt. BondBondcliff Traverse, Pemigewasset Wilderness Central White Mountains, New Hampshire
Distance/Time: 19.5 miles one-way, 12 hours
Intensity level: very strenuous

What Makes It A Classic: “The Bondcliff is among the most beautiful of mountain trails anywhere. It’s sublime-you just don’t see untracked woods that often,” says frequent online bulletin-board user C.T. Hammond. Much of this very challenging hike runs above treeline, explodes with summer blooms, and provides giant, empty eyefuls of the Pemigewasset’s 45,000 roadless acres. Save for the structures atop Loon and Washington, there’s not a building in sight. The very exposed route can also offer up “classic” White Mountain weather, so be prepared for cold and high winds. Three of the remote 4,000-footers hikers can bag on this traverse are named for prodigious Harvard mapmaker G.P. Bond: Bondcliff, West Bond, and Bond. Mount Guyot takes its name from one of his cronies. Spending a night at AMC’s Guyot Shelter, Zealand Falls Hut, or Galehead Hut will only make the magical experience last a little longer (and give your weary legs a break).

The Hike: Spot a car at the Zealand Road trailhead. Start this rigorous day-trek on the Wilderness Trail, following it 4.7 miles in from Lincoln Woods parking lot on the Kancamagus Highway to where it joins the Bondcliff Trail. After walking along a logging road and crossing several brooks, you’ll begin the long sidehill ascent up 4,265-foot Bondcliff (named for the sharp cliffs on the west side)-about a mile of it exposed-to get to the spectacular views from the summit. After passing just west of the top of Mount Bond with more vast views (4,698 feet), the trail drops steeply-watch for the spur path to West Bond at 6.1 miles. You’ll leave the “Pemi” for the last .8 miles of the Bondcliff Trail as you finally summit Mount Guyot (4,580 feet) and then head out to the the Twinway just west of here. Follow Twinway seven miles to the Zealand Trailhead.

Word To The Wise: Make sure you’ve got your WMNF parking passes in your windshield before you leave your car at either trailhead. Day pass: $3; season pass: $20. Conservation Watch: Roadless now doesn’t mean roadless forever. The U.S. Forest Service recently extended interim protection of the Pemigewasset and all wilderness areas until June 2007. Stay tuned through AMC’s Conservation Action Network.

Watering Hole: Rosa Flamingo’s in Bethlehem reputedly makes the best pizza in the North Country. Find it on Main Street, 603-869-3111.

Resources: AMC White Mountain Guide, 27th edition - the hiker's bible to the Whites for nearly 100 years.


Welch-Dickey Loop Southern White Mountains, New Hampshire
Time/Distance: 4.5-mile loop, 3 hours
Intensity: Easy/Moderate

What Makes It A Classic: “This is a classic beginner hike in our chapter,” says former Southeastern Mass. Chapter Chair Dexter Robinson. He loves sharing it with newcomers because “about 80 percent of the trail features magnificent views,” a rarity in the wooded Northeast. “It’s one of those modest effort-great reward hikes,” he says. It’s also accessible: The AMC White Mountain Guide deems the trail up Welch Mountain “one of the first trails to be clear of snow in the spring,” and it’s just an hour and a half from Boston, right at the entrance to Waterville Valley. And that’s not all-on this loop, you can bag two peaks in a relatively easy half-day outing.

The Hike: Making the loop counter-clockwise allows an easier return trip. From the parking area off Orris Road, follow the trail to the right, toward Welch Mountain. You’ll start heading uphill after about half a mile, then traverse flat, open ledges, amidst scrubby jack pine and dwarf birch, to reach the the 2,605-foot summit and views of Mad River and Campton Meadows. Be prepared for a few rock scrambles on this section. You’ll drop back into the woods before continuing up and over more exposed ledge to Dickey’s 2,734-foot summit. After a great ridge walk, with one stunningly sheer drop-off, you’ll descend to a logging road for the final hike out.

Word To The Wise: The many open slab crossings are lots of fun on sunny days, but can turn dangerous in the rain. Think twice about making this hike in inclement weather.

Conservation Watch: Last year, the USFS restored vegetation, educated hikers, rebuilt kiosks, and oversaw trail adopters in an effort to better protect this very well-used trail.

Watering Spot: Wednesday is Mexican Night at Campton’s Mad River Tavern. Other times you’ll just have to make do with Italian and seafood. Route 49, 603-726-4290.

Resources: AMC's Best Day Hikes in the White Mountains - our newest guide to the Whites includes 50 of the most spectacular trails in the region.

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-Madeleine Eno is Editor-at-Large for AMC Outdoors.

Photos: Bradley Porter, Fred Shirley