EIA Outdoors Online
backcountry cooking
caption The joy of cooking. Photo: iStock.
Channel your inner gourmand

By Christopher Percy Collier
AMC Outdoors, June 2007

Ask anyone who’s tromped through the woods to a campsite far from paved roads, traditional plumbing, and a shingled roof and they all say the same thing: Backcountry cooking just tastes better. Which is why camp cooks are among the most celebrated members of any backcountry crew. They are the planners of the bunch—tasked with details that can mean the difference between an empty stomach and full one. LeRee Hensen, co-owner of the Montana-based Royal Tine Camp Cook School, knows this all too well. She’s been culinary queen at campsites as far away as Alaska—and taught others to do the same. Over the past five years, Hensen has seen her business and name recognition pick up considerably. She’s been featured on The Food Network and in National Geographic Adventure magazine. Here’s how Hensen suggests spicing things up on the trail:

FILETS AL FRESCO  Hensen doesn’t hesitate to bring meat—a much-needed protein—with her on the trail; it’s easily cooked and can be seasoned in the woods in ways similar to what you’d find at a high-end steakhouse. She’ll pull a raw filet from the freezer for the first night, and it’s thawed just in time for dinner at camp. And she’ll pack up pre-cooked burger patties for the successive day. When she’s on horseback, she’ll bring a small cooler and stow it in a creek to keep contents cold. “You have to tie it down or it might float away,” she warns. “I learned that the hard way.”

BRING THE HEAT  Don’t believe the hype. You don’t need a Viking range to cook a gourmet meal. With a Dutch oven that easily fits inside a backpack, you can make biscuits from scratch for breakfast, pizzas for lunch, and blueberry pie for dessert. “Baking is what I’ve noticed impresses people the most,” says Bill Kriegger, who works with Hensen. It offers more variety than using a single pot and skillet.

FRESHEN UP  Hensen is a staunch proponent of foraging for fruits and vegetables from your surroundings—provided you have a field guide to identify what you’re about to scarf down. Wild onions can be added to potatoes. Mushrooms (use extra caution here) can be sautéed with balsamic vinegar. Berries can be gathered for breakfast or dessert. “While in Alaska, I made blueberry pies,” recalls Hensen. “Everybody got really jazzed.”

PACKING IT IN  Jars have no place in the backcountry. Ditch them or risk littering your food with glass shards. Tougher vegetables that can be lightly sautéed in olive oil—cabbage, onions, potatoes, carrots, and radishes—are ideal for multi-day trips. Green peppers should be eaten immediately. Meanwhile, corn should be left on the husk to retain moisture while cooked with foil in coals. “But you can’t just toss it in, and walk away,” Hensen says. “Good cooking takes more attention than that.”