AMC Outdoors, January/February 2008
Sharpen your crampon skills
Crampons transform you into a different species of outdoor adventurer, a clawed creature of the winter landscape. In your expanded habitat, you tromp safely and easily across icy and snow-covered terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible or too dangerous to attempt. But there are some important things to know before you sink your talons into the snow. “Crampons are a really great tool,” says Justin Preisendorfer, a U.S. Forest Service snow ranger, “but they can also be dangerous.”
GET THE FIT Crampons, those jagged metal spikes under your boots, stab into ice and snow and provide secure, nonslip traction on slick winter terrain. They must attach securely to your footwear and not shift, slide, or pop off at any time, which could lead to a dangerous stumble or fall. Adjust the length of your crampons so that the front and back press firmly against the boot’s toe and heel area, a project best done at home rather than in the chilly backcountry. To test the fit, attach the crampons without using straps or clips and then pick up your boots; the crampons should stay fixed in place and not fall off. Once adjusted, crampons are secured either with a tension lever that snaps into position on the raised heel welt found on heavier boots, or with straps, which can be used on a wider range of footwear.
Most crampons are designed to work with boots that feature a very stiff or completely rigid sole. If you need a crampon for a more flexible boot, look for a bendable connector bar that flexes with each step. Though it is possible to use a stiff crampon on a flexible boot, it is not recommended; they are difficult to keep securely attached and will cause significant stress and discomfort to your feet.
TERRAIN AND TECHNIQUE Crampons are needed only for travel across ice or hard-packed snow when footing would otherwise be too slick to proceed. They are unnecessary if you can easily kick your foot into the snow, and can even be dangerous in such conditions. Soft snow tends to collect under your crampons, creating a substantial lump underfoot that can easily lead to a slide, stumble, or twisted ankle. Anti-balling plates—sheets of plastic or rubber that attach underneath the crampons—will help prevent snow from accumulating but won’t eliminate the problem.
When walking in crampons, be conscious of the metal spikes protruding from the front of your boots, which can easily catch an obstacle in the path or snag on the inside of your pant cuff. Adopt a gait a bit wider than normal to prevent a shredded pant leg and potential fall and turn your toes slightly outward to help dodge obstacles, especially on steeper ascents. Loose-fitting snowboard or ski pants are best avoided. “Baggy might be ‘in’ at the park, but it’s not if you’re climbing up a gully,” Preisendorfer notes. To deal with loose pant cuffs, wear a pair of gaiters over them—recommended for most winter excursions anyway—or use duct tape to keep them temporarily out of the way.
THE NUMBER ONE NO-NO Preisendorfer spends more than 150 days each season on the slopes of Mount Washington, evaluating avalanche hazards in Tuckerman and Huntington ravines, educating the public on backcountry safety, and taking part in area search-and-rescues when they occur. “The number one preventable accident we see is caused by people glissading with their crampons on,” he says. Glissading—a controlled downhill slide on your butt—can get you home faster, but wearing crampons while doing so is “a really, really bad decision, whether you’re a novice or advanced mountaineer,” he says. “If you start going faster than expected, your first reaction will be to dig in your heels.” And snagging a crampon point at high speed can instantly cause a severe ankle sprain, snapped leg bone, or boot-top fracture. “Never glissade while wearing crampons, even if it’s only for a short distance,” Preisendorfer concludes. “It’s really not worth a broken leg.”
—By Matt Heid
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