A knife is considered one of the 10 essentials, a critical piece of outdoor gear for safety, convenience, and whittling your marshmallow stick. There is a vast universe of knife styles and models out there, however, ranging in price from $25 to $100 and beyond. So how do you hone in on the right edge?

BE A FAN OF STEEL  The largest contributing factor to knife cost and quality is the type of steel used in the blade. Steel varies in four main aspects: wear resistance, strength, toughness, and the ability to hold an edge. Wear resistance helps protect the blade from abrasion; it’s good for heavy cutting (cardboard, carpet, etc.). Greater strength allows a blade to withstand more pressure without deforming—the quality you want for whittling or flaking off wood chips—while tougher blades can better withstand impacts without cracking. And different types of steel will hold an edge longer than others, based in part on the steel’s chemistry.

THE CUTTING EDGE  A variety of elements—carbon, manganese, molybdenum, nickel, phosphorus, sulfur, tungsten, vanadium—are added in tiny amounts to impart certain qualities to steel, including hardness, edge retention, and machinability. Chromium imparts rust-resistance to steel and often accounts for a more significant percentage. Manufacturers can label their knives as “stainless” if they contain 11.5 percent or more chromium. Be aware that this tag is a bit of a misnomer; “stainless steel” is just slower to rust.

GET THEIR NUMBER   There are literally hundreds of types of steel, most identified by an arcane system of letters and numbers—440C, 5160, CDV-14, 440-XH, etc.—though you’ll encounter a few common varieties in most outdoor knives. 154CM steel, a quality all-around choice for the outdoors, is used in many knives in the $50-$100 category; it features good toughness and edge retention. Similar in quality and price to 154CM are ATS-34 and D-2 steels. S30V steel is a step up and holds its edge longer; it’s probably the best blade you can get for under $100. Keep in mind that less expensive knives are not bad—just inconsistent in quality. More dependable models will carry a label indicating the type of steel on the blade itself, an assurance of better workmanship.

PLAY SAFE  Unlocked blades can flip backward and carve your fingers. A variety of locking mechanisms are available to help keep your digits intact. Liner locks, which bend inward from the handle to secure the blade, are common. It is important to keep the lock clean; grit and food can clog it up. When shopping, test liner locks to ensure they are not too stiff, hard to grip, or difficult to push. Beware locks that contain plastic parts; they will not hold up over the long term. Locks that have smooth-moving metal parts are preferable; the Benchmade AXIS lock and SOG ARC-Lock are two of the best.

USE THESE POINTERS Many knives feature blades with both straight-edge and serrated portions. Serrated edges are ideal for cutting cord, rope, and straps. They also stay sharp much longer than a straight-edge—ideal for the lazy honer—though they are more difficult to sharpen when the time comes. Check out the steel thickness at the tip of the blade. If it’s thin, twisting and torque can more easily snap it. Knives are balanced differently. Blade-heavy knives are considered better for hard cutting and chopping, handle-heavy styles for more delicate work. It’s largely personal preference, however; go with whatever feels best in your hand.