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Little Harbor, New Castle, and Portsmouth, N.H. Little Harbor, which spills into the historic communities of Portsmouth and New Castle Island, provides inland saltwater paddling sheltered from the Piscataqua River's strong currents and the more turbulent open ocean. Settled in the early 1600s, Portsmouth and New Castle are two of New England's oldest communities, and New Castle is the only town in New Hampshire completely contained on an island. Portsmouth's busy working waterfront, and the area's historic houses, forts, parks, beaches, and yacht clubs, make this a paddle rich in diverse vistas. Launch from Peirce's Landing on an ebb tide, just south of Strawbery Banke in Portsmouth's historic district. The view onshore looks as it might have in the 18th century, with old fish houses, wharves, the graceful Wentworth-Gardner House built in 1760 at water's edge, and the slim North Church tower in the distance. Ride the tide south toward New Castle Island's west side. Much of the water behind New Castle drains at low tide, but a narrow channel (unnamed) makes the area navigable. Paddle past Shapleigh Island, then over to Portsmouth's Frame Point, on which sits the mustard-yellow 18th-century Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion, former home of New Hampshire's first royal governor and now an interpretive museum. Across the channel, two outcrops, Leachs Island and the smaller Pest Island, buffer New Castle's western shore and are fun spots to come ashore for a swim or snack. Continue past the islands and paddle into Little Harbor proper once you pass under the Blunts Island Bridge; be wary of fast currents and drifting lines from fishermen up above. On your left, the 127-year-old grand Wentworth by the Sea Hotel and its marina dominate the landscape. Head across the bay toward the opposite shore to picnic and hike on the sandy beach at Frost Point, part of Odiorne Point State Park in Rye. The more adventurous can paddle out of Little Harbor into the ocean, turning north to follow the Piscataqua River up the island's east side, for a circumnavigation of about 6 miles. Rob Nardone, the Boston Chapter's sea kayaking chair, recommends this route, which he led last year. Nardone also recommends paddling from Cashman Park in Newburyport, Mass., to Salisbury Beach State Park to see seals. Last year, a group he led saw about a half dozen or more sunning themselves and swimming in the water. Waquoit Bay and Washburn Island, Mass. Distance: 3 miles from White’s Landing to Washburn Island; 10-mile loop around the bay For more information: www.amcsem.org; www.waquoitbayreserve.org Waquoit Bay is one of several shallow, narrow bays on the south side of Cape Cod created by receding glaciers and protected by barrier beaches. It provides access to the 355-acre, state-owned Washburn Island, one of the few places you can camp legally along the Cape’s shoreline. Eleven primitive campsites are available from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Visit www.waquoitbayreserve.org/camp.htm for more details. Waquoit is a National Estuarine Research Reserve, one of 27 in the U.S. It is protected from development and serves as a natural laboratory for biologists. Its visitor center, at the head of the bay, also provides educational programs to the public. The shallow, warm-water bay averages 3 feet in depth. Three freshwater rivers and two saltwater inlets feed its rich estuary life. You can forage for quahogs, soft-shell clams, bay scallops, mussels, oysters, and blue crabs, all plentiful (shellfish license required). You will also see piping plovers and roseate and least terns, all protected. Most trips start at Falmouth town landing (also called White’s) on the Childs River just to the west of the Edwards Boatyard. Head down the Childs River into the Seapit River, then into Waquoit Bay. Less than 3 miles from the landing, Washburn is the large island to the right, distinguished by its oak and pine forests, barrier beach, and lack of development. From there, several additional explorations are possible. “Waquoit Bay in Falmouth and Mashpee has the advantage of not being particularly tide dependent,” says Ed Foster, trip leader for AMC’s Southeastern Massachusetts Chapter. Still, the trips are weather- and wind-dependent, Southeastern Massachusetts Chapter trip leader Phyllis Evenden explains. “If there is a strong northwest or west wind, it’s best to stay close to Washburn Island on the east side,” she says. “Also, if you want to cross the bay, you must take wind speed and direction into account.” Evenden recommends several places to paddle on the bay. “Tim’s Pond at the south end of Washburn Island is a nice paddle, but tide-dependent,” she says. “On the east side, there is Great River which leads to Jehu’s Pond, back to the entrance of Great River, up Little River to Hamblin Pond, and then a short cut through a drainage pipe (tide-dependent) and back into Waquoit Bay. There’s also Sage Lot Pond at the southern end of the bay.”
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Saltwater journeys. Photo by Jerry and Marcy Monkman.
