EIA Outdoors Online
Bikers
caption AMC members Laura Smeaton and Brian Postlewaite cross a bridge on Boston's Esplanade. Photo by
Tracy Powell.
A tour of historic and family-friendly East Coast bike paths

By Marc Chalufour
AMC Outdoors, September/October 2009

“There’s waterfalls!” exclaims Gabe Harris. “Two of them!”

The 3-year-old and his dad, Ben, have just parked the family station wagon in a lot near the southern end of the Blackstone River Bikeway (BRB) in Lincoln, R.I. Clearly Gabe is looking forward to enjoying a ride on one of the area’s nicest paths from the comfort of his bike trailer.

His dad was initially a bit less enthusiastic. “Oh man, the Blackstone path is my favorite cycling spot in these parts,” he wrote in an e-mail, after I asked if he’d be willing to join me for a ride there. A Providence resident and member of AMC’s Narragansett Chapter, he rides the BRB a few times a month, often with Gabe in tow. “It would be with some degree of sadness that I would help you publicize it. But I suppose the cycling community can only benefit....”

As we begin our ride, I quickly understand the enthusiasm of both father and son. The BRB, currently an 11.6-mile paved route from Cumberland, R.I., to Woonsocket, R.I., is a gem of a bike path that meanders along its namesake river, sheltered from the surrounding communities. The southern terminus is just a short on-street ride from Providence, and several parking lots provide access by car. Though the BRB is not as well known as the popular East Bay Bike Path (EBBP), which begins within the Providence city limits, that’s bound to change when northern and southern extensions are finished. The completed BRB will be 48 miles, linking New England’s second- and third-largest cities, Providence and Worcester, Mass. The BRB will then connect to the EBBP, forming an uninterrupted route that will eventually total more than 65 miles.

The BRB and EBBP are just two of hundreds of rail trails in the Northeast, where an extensive network of old railways and canals is ideal for converting into recreational areas. According to the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, the Northeast boasts more than 450 rail trails—a third of the nation’s total—with nearly 4,000 miles of pathway, and another 2,200 miles in the works.

The BRB is a shining example of the opportunities that former industrial corridors offer. The bikeway runs through the heart of the John H. Chafee Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor, so designated for its role as a birthplace of the industrial revolution. As we ride through Lincoln and toward Woonsocket, Ben points out some highlights, including the old canal that parallels the Blackstone River. “That was for the barges,” Gabe chimes in, eager to be part of the conversation. We’re riding on what was likely the original towpath, which divides the still water of the canal from the river.

Completed in just three years, from 1825 to 1828, the canal flowed for 48 miles and through 48 locks between Worcester and Providence, opening up the former as an important inland port. The bikeway, which now follows the general path of the canal and borders it in many places, is approximately 25 percent complete a decade after the first section opened. The river itself is a recreational resource as well, although pollution—some of it from the discharge of dyes, heavy metals, and chemicals more than a century ago—continues to affect the water, and the Blackstone is currently considered suitable only for boating.

A large parking lot off of Front Street in Lincoln is situated at the start of a 5-mile stretch that is both scenic and remote, though today we opt to ride all the way from Front Street to Woonsocket, a 20-mile round trip. Gabe remains engaged for the entire ride. A downed tree across the path must’ve been knocked over by elephants, he says with confidence. “They come out at night,” he explains. Next, a snack break at the granite benches overlooking the Manville Dam gives Gabe a view of one of the waterfalls he’s been looking forward to.

There are plenty of other sights to see as well. A former Owens-Corning fiberglass plant, old bridges, and remains of the canal’s original locks are among the many remnants of the industrial revolution that dot the trail. Free tours of the Wilbur Kelly House Museum (adjacent to the path about 4 miles from Front Street) are also available for those interested in the history of transportation in the area.

As cozy as he is being towed by his father, Gabe will soon be graduating to a two-wheeler of his own. When he does, his younger brother, Blake, will be just old enough to don a helmet and assume the seat in the trailer, allowing Ben and his wife, Jen, to enjoy the Blackstone River Bikeway as a family. 

MORE INFO: Blackstone River Bikeway


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