Cross-country skis work by combining grip and glide. Photo by Pat Bagley.
caption Cross-country skis work by combining grip and glide. Photo by Pat Bagley.

Choose the right skis to glide through winter


By Matt Heid

AMC Outdoors, January/February 2012

LEARN MORE
Read more about ski wax at outdoors.org/skiwax, and read Matt Heid's gear blog here.

The Northeast has donned its snowy cloak of slip-sliding fun. Time to winterize your life with a pair of cross-country skis and revel in the waiting wonderland. It's only a kick and glide away. But before you head to your local ski shop—and stare slack-jawed at the bewildering array of equipment—here's what you need to know about selecting boots, bindings, skis, and poles.

The basics
Cross-country skis work by combining grip and glide. The tips and tails provide a low-friction surface for sliding forward, while the area directly underfoot features a high-friction surface (the "kick zone") that grabs the snow. Cross-country skis are arched upward, or cambered, so that only the tips and tails are in contact with the snow when your weight is distributed over both skis. When only one ski is fully weighted, it flexes to bring the kick zone into contact with the snow. This grip provides the leverage to push off and move forward. (This form of cross-country skiing is sometimes referred to as the "classic" style, as opposed to skate skiing.)

Boots and bindings
Finding the right boot is the most crucial element in cross-country gear selection. Fit is paramount. Look for styles that holds your heel firmly in place, provide ample room in the toe box, and fit snugly throughout without being uncomfortably tight anywhere. The goal is to minimize foot motion inside your boot, the primary cause of discomfort and blisters. Once you've identified a winner, the bindings come next. There are two types: NNN and SNS. Most boots use the NNN (New Nordic Norm) system, while SNS (Salomon Nordic System) is specific to the Salomon brand. Both work equally well, but note that the two are not interchangeable. Some manufacturers, notably Fischer, feature an NNN-compatible system known as NIS (Nordic Integrated System), which allows the bindings to be easily snapped onto the skis rather than drilled into place by a ski technician.

DID YOU KNOW?
Prehistoric skis dating to 6700 B.C. have been found in bogs in Sweden and northern Russia. Made of spruce, they featured upturned tips and horsehair for traction, and weighed roughly 12 pounds per pair.

Ski selection
Cross-country skis are sized based on the skier's weight to achieve the proper balance between grip and glide. Manufacturers provide a recommended weight range for each length of ski. If you fall in the border zone between two ranges, keep in mind that the shorter ski will provide better grip (and be easier for learning) but not glide as efficiently. Grip is traditionally provided by a kick wax that must be applied manually, but these days most recreational skis are "waxless" and instead feature a raised pattern underfoot that generates friction from its fish scale texture. Such skis work well for learning and casual outings, but don't provide optimal performance if you're looking for maximum grip and speed.

Pole sizing
Pole length varies in 5-centimeter increments. To find the size that's right for you, hold the poles vertically next to your body and find the length that extends to your armpits. A basic set of poles can be had for as little as $20, but pay close attention to the wrist straps. Most inexpensive models feature nothing more than a thin nylon strap, which can chafe uncomfortably on a long outing. Poles with padded wrist straps are a worthwhile investment.

Classic versus backcountry
Most recreational cross-country skis are designed for groomed tracks or gentle rolling terrain. If you're looking to travel in steeper, untracked locations, you may want to consider a backcountry set-up. Skis designed for this use feature metal edges that provide better traction for turning on descents as well as digging into the slope on side-hill traverses. They also are usually wider to provide better flotation in unconsolidated snow. Backcountry ski boots are stiffer to provide better ankle support and ski control, but require a different binding than a recreational boot. They are also more expensive. If you're looking for maximum versatility, consider a metal-edge ski no wider than 70mm—the width of a standard groomed track—and choose either backcountry or recreational boots and bindings, depending on your primary intended use.